Wednesday, February 28, 2007

Pics..

I forgot to put up the pic of the baby girl with all the make-up. And here's Janice on the bus in this tiny rural town. Most tourists just take rickshaws as they're so cheap and the buses are sometimes hard to figure out. You just have to wave the bus down and jump on (as it slows down...) and it's often not clear where it's going...but it's much funner and everyone on the bus freaks out!! And we refuse to pay 50 rps ($1.50) for less then an hour drive..pfff. haha.




Tuesday, February 27, 2007

We've been at Kovalom beach the last few days before we head to a week long yoga camp. We've just been beaching it...and we took a cool Keralan cooking course. I made masala dosa!

I just came across the anti-Bush scarcrow thingy on a tree near the beach. I'm not sure if the shoes have a specific significance. But it seems people don't like shoes, as you have to take them off when you go in most stores, offices and all temples. And you're not supposed to point them at anyone when you sit down cross legged.

A few more observations:

India is so conservative! While there is lots of "boy on boy" action going on, men and women and women and women don't make any contact in public. And the few beers we've had here are wrapped in newspaper and kept under the table! It's funny though, because when we came we'd get annoyed at having to wear long shirts etc. in such hot weather. But we've turned into conservative Indians and when we see other tourists we're like "omigod, look at that shoulder slut! What does she think she's doing? What are her parents going to think?" hahah.

Indians love little kids and babies. Dads are especially cute with their kids, and more involved with childcare then I would have thought. We often see dads with their kids on the bus or walking around town. And even if the mom is there, the dad always carries the baby (also probably because they don't have slings or baby backpacks). And baby girls are always really dressed up and have more bangles and anklets then their moms. They also wear a lot of eye/eyebrow liner, which is said to keep away evil spirits.

We've taken many kinds of transportation: train, long/short distance bus, car, autorickshaw, motorbike taxi, scooter, ferry and canoe. The train is by far the best as it's the fastest and most comfortable. The train system is huge and because everyone takes the train the classes vary from moving hotel room to stinky, crowded "chair class" (if you even get one). We take one up from the lowest class, which is fine! While we've been pretty lucky, a few days ago we were late getting to the station so we got on the wrong car. It was super packed, so the next station we jumped off and ran up to another car which was first class. ugh. So, we ran up again and jumped on another packed one but just decided to stay on. But we had to climb up on the upper level of seats, but it was so full we had to monkey jump up. In doing so, Janice kicked someone in the head and I spilled water on everyone below us!! Then we looked around and realized we were on an all male car!! (they sometimes have seperate ones). But we just had to stay, as not to hurt anyone else. yikes. :)

While of course it is hard to see people living on the street, I think the most significant sign of poverty is child labour. Little kids are often selling things and working behind restaurants/food stands. And in one restaurant, our server must have been 10! I just felt like asking if he wanted to play house. :( And this is only what we see, as the most child labour is in the textiles industry. I just feel this reliance on child labour goes against India boasting the "world's largest democracy." Though I guess the West trades and prospers from the same products...but we just don't have to see the consequences! And of course kids working means their not in school, which just continues the cycle...





































Sunday, February 25, 2007

In the jungle, the mighty jungle...

We just finished 3 days in the mountains, which is where all the spices and tea plantations are located. We also went to another wildlife sanctuary, Periyar, which is home to 2000 elephants, 50 tigers, sambar, guar, boar, bison, monkeys and a few others. But we still didn't see any elephants! But we did go for a 4 hour trek in the jungle and learned a lot about medicinal plants, ayurvedic medicine and religious uses of plants. We also also went to a spice garden, who knew cinnamon came from trees! And then we had a tour of a tea plantation. The tea here is sooo good, chai is actually just the normal tea but made with milk. And then there are other spicier teas like masala or cardamon etc.
































Monday, February 19, 2007

Backwaters

Here's a few pics from the backwaters, a huge 900km river system in Kerala. There are coconut and mango groves, rice paddies and these cool Chinese fishing nets. We went on a big boat from Kollam to Amma's and then Jan and I went on a two seater village tour.










Seeing as India is a man's world, we thought we would go to the Amritapuri ashram, home of India's most famous female guru. She is also known as the "hugging mother" because she gives "darshan," a holy hug. People line up for hours for her hugs, and she has been known to hug for more then 24 hours in one sitting (without getting up or eating). People travel from all over the world to stay at the ashram and are said to "find peace, love, personal insight and spiritual understanding" in her hugs. She also travels for 8 months of the year to 20+ countries and has hugged over 25 million people so far!!

Besides hugging, she preaches love, compassion and "selfless service" (humanitarian work). She is both cool and spiritual but also makes the audience laugh, dances "raise the roof" Indian style and is an amazing singer!! She has a huge NGO which has various hospitals, school, universities, environmental programs, housing/feeding/pension programs and disaster relief ($20 million on the tsunami).

We got darshan twice, though it happens so quickly its hard to think! There is a huge audience and then Amma sits up on stage totally surrounded by a hive of swamis/as (disciples) and other helpers (all in white). When you get to the front of the line, one person pushes you down to kneel, another pushes your legs so you're in front of her, another puts your hands on the chair, another twists your head and then Amma pulls you in for a tight hug and kiss and whispers in her own language "my daughter, my daughter, my daughter" and then another person pulls you up and out...this is all within 10 seconds!! And while she is an amazing and loving person, I didn't really feel anything as profound as the people weeping and falling on the ground beside me did! And then another helper asks "are you alright, do you need to sit down" and others asked "how was your first experience with Amma." I felt like I should have shed a few tears or something, but I just couldn't squeeze any out! :)

The ashram is really cool, it is all pink and has 3 skyscrapers for more then 4000 permanent residents, along with visitors like us. It is located between the river (we took a 3 hour boat there) and the ocean, and is also her families land. Staying there cost $4 (all food incl.) and we had to do "seva" which is 1-2 hours of work each day (I did laundry and dishes). The schedule was also quite intense, but it wasn't mandatory (we only got up this early the first day!). Here it is:

5-6-Archana-chanting of the 1000 names of the "Divine Mother"
6:30-7:30 meditation
8-9-yoga
9-10-breakfast
10-..-seva
1-lunch
2-satsang-spiritual talk
5-6 meditation
6-7 bhajans (really cool music, often led by Amma and probably my favorite part of the ashram)
8-dinner

Overall the ashram experience was both intense but relaxing. I really admire Amma, she has a truly beautiful heart and is doing great things.

"People experience two types of poverty: the poverty caused by lack of food, clothing and shelter; and the poverty caused by lack of love and compassion. Of these two, the second type needs to be considered first—because, if we have love and compassion in our hearts, then we will wholeheartedly serve those who suffer from lack of food, clothing and shelter." -Amma

http://www.amritapuri.org/Mother-page.php




Tuesday, February 13, 2007

Here's a few more pics:

Trucks are always named after someone, and always really colourfully painted. Hinduism is definitley part of everyday life, as there are shrines in every store, office, restaurant, bus etc. And people buy flowers for their hair and also drape them over the shrines along with incense and candles. Inside the buses there are always various posters of different gods/dieties. Jesus is sometimes stuck in there as well, alongside Shiva and Ganesh. :) While Hindus worship various gods, there is still an overarching God as well, so maybe that is why they put Jesus in there (hmm..that still doesn't make sense :)).

These other pics are from Jewtown, which is one of the oldest Jewish settlements in India and has a lot of art shops and a spice market.

The last pic was the first caste related sign. To my unknowing eye, I haven't seen any other obvious caste division.

We are easily asked where we're from 10-20x/day. Usually by people we're talking to, but sometimes people ask across the street/restaurant/field or as people drive by! Here are some of the responses we're gotten when we say we're Canadian:

"ahh, so you're American, we hate Bush!!"
"is that near Argentina?"
"how do you like our beautiful country?"
"how do you like our beautiful women?"
"can you get me a visa?"
"do you speak Hindi there?"
"ahhhh..the land of the maple"



























































Monday, February 12, 2007

Kathakali

Last night we went to a kathakali which is a "dramatized presentation of a play, usually based on the Hindu epics the Ramayana, the Mahabharate and the Puranas. Drummers and singers accompany the actors, who tell the story through precise movements, particularly mudras (hand gestures) and facial expressions." (LP)

We've had varying experiences with food and restaurants. We both love the food but sometimes are surprised as many places operate differently. For example, we usually just order a curry or two, rice and flat bread. As well there are different spicy soups, drinks, desserts or condiments that just come with it. But sometimes other random dishes come half way through the meal, or the servers just come offer us different things to try. And when we were in the rural areas they don't have menus, so just name off different dishes. And if we can't decide right away a gathering of servers join in and try to help us by naming off all the dishes again or giving their opinion of what is best. Either way, we end up with our food. haha.

Gotta go!!




I love Che!

The last few days we have been traveling a lot and only staying one night in each town and then moving on. We are now in Kochi and travelling down to Kollam tomorrow.

We had envisioned a Jungle Book setting for the wildlife park, with our main goal being to see wild elephants. Unfortunately, we only saw monkeys, deer and the very exciting "giant" squirrel (nothing compared to the Calgarian squirrel!). Though we did see some elephant manure (sorry no pic:)). We will try again further down in Kerala at the Periyar Park.

Outside Kurrur, we saw a thyyam which is "ritualistic art form performed as an offering to the deities and to ward off poverty and illness. It is a local ritual, in which the performer loses his physical identity and speaks, moves and blesses the devotees as if he was the deity. It involves dancing and drumming and usually lasts from evening and goes until the next day" (LP). It was really crazy and intense!!

We are now in Kerala, which is the most poltically interesting state. It has the first freely elected communist government in the world (which had been in and out of power) and is also the most successful state development wise. It has a 90% literacy rate, low infant mortality and a more equitable distribution of land. While I had learned that in class, I wasn't expecting such a link with Cuba and Che, but there are signs everywhere! I even saw a billboard of the "Cuban 5" (US held political prisoners) which was a big deal in Cuba but I didn't expect it here.